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v 2.0.2

Minor Versionm

by Matt P. Lamparter

Introduction

This guide will walk you through the steps of assembling a DAMNED device. You will be provided with the BOM (bill of materials) and the guide will explain each step of assembly. This guide assumes you have completed all prior steps of 3D printing and laser cutting parts and soldering components to the PCB.

  1. Confirm you have everything on the bill of materials (BOM).
    • Confirm you have everything on the bill of materials (BOM).

    • In addition to these parts you will need the items you assembled during the previous Design Assignments:

    • Populated PCB

    • 3D printed pieces including the shell front, shell back, and motor arm

    • Laser cut pieces including the LED ring base, ring mount bottom, ring mount top

    • Feather M4, AirLift board, and power supply

  2. Begin by locating the wooden LED ring base, the 4-40 x 1/4" bolts, two nuts, two washers, and the stepper motor. Insert the motor shaft from the rear of the LED ring base (side without text) so that the housing flanges are flush against the wooden base.  Line the mounting holes of the motor up with the holes on the wooden base. Make sure the hole pattern of your board matches that shown in the example!  Otherwise parts will not line up in future steps.
    • Begin by locating the wooden LED ring base, the 4-40 x 1/4" bolts, two nuts, two washers, and the stepper motor.

    • Insert the motor shaft from the rear of the LED ring base (side without text) so that the housing flanges are flush against the wooden base. Line the mounting holes of the motor up with the holes on the wooden base.

    • Make sure the hole pattern of your board matches that shown in the example! Otherwise parts will not line up in future steps.

    • Insert the two bolts from the front of the LED ring base through the motor mounting holes. Use a washer between the bolt head and the wooden base.

    • Secure the bolts with the washers. You will need a 3/32" hex key for the bolts. You can use either a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the bolts or a 1/4" nut driver.

  3. Examine the back of the NeoPixel LED ring.  Look at the image shown here and identify these holes on your ring.  These are the three spots where you will need to solder copper wires. Note that PWR and GND have multiple connection points.  Be sure to use the ones indicated here to avoid assembly errors! Insert one of the 3" bare metal wires from the back of the ring.  Extend it through the top approximately a 1/4".  Bend the wire slightly so that it stays in place.
    • Examine the back of the NeoPixel LED ring. Look at the image shown here and identify these holes on your ring. These are the three spots where you will need to solder copper wires.

    • Note that PWR and GND have multiple connection points. Be sure to use the ones indicated here to avoid assembly errors!

    • Insert one of the 3" bare metal wires from the back of the ring. Extend it through the top approximately a 1/4". Bend the wire slightly so that it stays in place.

    • Holding the PCB in a vice, solder the wire on the top of the PCB. Once you have it soldered in place use flush cutters to clip the top of the wire remaining as close to the PCB as you can.

    • Repeat this process for all three wires. When you are done all three wires should be sticking up from the back of the ring PCB.

  4. Now line the LED ring up with the front of the LED ring base.  Keep the three wires as straight as possible. Push the wires through the three appropriately spaced holes in the LED ring base. The LED ring should sit flush with the LED ring base.  You may bend the wires slightly to prevent the ring from falling out, but use caution.  Repeated bending of the wire can cause it to break.
    • Now line the LED ring up with the front of the LED ring base. Keep the three wires as straight as possible.

    • Push the wires through the three appropriately spaced holes in the LED ring base.

    • The LED ring should sit flush with the LED ring base. You may bend the wires slightly to prevent the ring from falling out, but use caution. Repeated bending of the wire can cause it to break.

  5. This step involves using glue.  You must either work on the blue/grey soldering mats in the Fabrication area or else use cardboard or other protective material (white craft paper) to cover benches or tables elsewhere in the Maker-E.  Failure to do so can cause damage to work surfaces and may result in Maker-E access revocation. Find wood glue in the yellow DeWalt cabinet.  Also get a small piece of wire to apply glue and a piece of cardboard or other scrap material to hold glue. Locate the two wooden mounting rings.  Apply a thin layer of wood glue to the  back of both rings.  The back is the side without any writing.
    • This step involves using glue. You must either work on the blue/grey soldering mats in the Fabrication area or else use cardboard or other protective material (white craft paper) to cover benches or tables elsewhere in the Maker-E. Failure to do so can cause damage to work surfaces and may result in Maker-E access revocation.

    • Find wood glue in the yellow DeWalt cabinet. Also get a small piece of wire to apply glue and a piece of cardboard or other scrap material to hold glue.

    • Locate the two wooden mounting rings. Apply a thin layer of wood glue to the back of both rings. The back is the side without any writing.

    • Layer the three wooden pieces as follows:

    • Begin with the LED ring base. The side with the bolt heads and motor shaft should be facing up.

    • Next, lay the bottom mount ring on top of the LED ring base, glue side down. The word FRONT should be facing up.

    • Finally, lay the top mount ring on top, glue side down. The ECEG 201 should be facing up.

    • Your stack up should look like the final image shown here. Be sure all three of the mounting holes in the tabs line up.

  6. Locate the acrylic diffuser and the three wood screws (pointy ends).  You will also need a flat blade screwdriver. Note that you may have to remove a protective film from your acrylic diffuser. Use the screwdriver to screw the three screws through the holes in the diffuser into the plywood.  The holes in the plywood are undersized so you will need to use a little pressure when driving the screws to cut threads into the plywood.
    • Locate the acrylic diffuser and the three wood screws (pointy ends). You will also need a flat blade screwdriver.

    • Note that you may have to remove a protective film from your acrylic diffuser.

    • Use the screwdriver to screw the three screws through the holes in the diffuser into the plywood. The holes in the plywood are undersized so you will need to use a little pressure when driving the screws to cut threads into the plywood.

    • Be sure to securely hold the three plywood layers together as you tighten the screws. If gaps appear while you are tightening the screws you will need to back the screws out, re-clamp, and then tighten the screws again.

    • When you are finished with all three screws the acrylic should sit flush against the plywood rings and the there should be no gaps between the plywood.

  7. Line the PCB up with the wooden LED ring assembly.  The back of the PCB should face the back of the LED assembly. Be sure that the notch in the offset center hole of the PCB lines up with the motor and motor wires.  Gently pull the four motor wires through the notch as you lower the PCB down over the motor. Carefully lower the PCB down towards the wooden LED assembly.  Insert each of the three LED ring wires through the corresponding holes on the PCB labelled (on the back) as DIN, VCC, GND.  The wires should be sticking straight up in the air.
    • Line the PCB up with the wooden LED ring assembly. The back of the PCB should face the back of the LED assembly.

    • Be sure that the notch in the offset center hole of the PCB lines up with the motor and motor wires. Gently pull the four motor wires through the notch as you lower the PCB down over the motor.

    • Carefully lower the PCB down towards the wooden LED assembly. Insert each of the three LED ring wires through the corresponding holes on the PCB labelled (on the back) as DIN, VCC, GND. The wires should be sticking straight up in the air.

    • Once the PCB is resting on top of the LED assembly you will need to secure it with three bolts of size 4-40 x 1/2". Add a black spacer between the LED assembly and the PCB.

    • Pass the bolt through from the front of the wooden LED assembly, through the black spacer, so that the end of the bolt protrudes from the front of the PCB. Secure the bolt with a nut. You will need a 3/32" hex key and needle nose pliers or a 1/4" nut driver.

    • Repeat for all three mounting holes on the PCB so that it is securely fastened to the LED assembly.

  8. Locate the three wires protruding from the PCB through the DIN, VCC, and GND holes. Use a soldering iron to solder these three wires in place.  Be sure to heat both the wire AND the annular ring (golden ring) of the through hole.  Use a good amount of solder to completely fill the hole and ensure the wire is properly soldered and making good connection. When you are done use a pair of flush cutters to clip the wire flush with the PCB.
    • Locate the three wires protruding from the PCB through the DIN, VCC, and GND holes.

    • Use a soldering iron to solder these three wires in place. Be sure to heat both the wire AND the annular ring (golden ring) of the through hole. Use a good amount of solder to completely fill the hole and ensure the wire is properly soldered and making good connection.

    • When you are done use a pair of flush cutters to clip the wire flush with the PCB.

    • Be careful when soldering the DIN connection, near part U5. It is easy to inadvertently touch the iron to the U5 part or the plastic terminal block.

  9. Route the four wires from the motor and secure them in the terminal block as shown here in this order from left to right:  pink, orange, yellow, blue.  Use the flat blade screwdriver to secure the wires. Carefully place the Feather board on top of the mounting headers on the PCB.  Be careful to line all of the pins up properly.  Gently push down until the board is fully mounted on the PCB.  Failure to line up pins can cause them to bend and break. Finally, line the AirLift board up on top of the Feather.  Again, be sure to line all of the pins up properly.  Gently push down on the AirLift until it is securely mated with the Feather.
    • Route the four wires from the motor and secure them in the terminal block as shown here in this order from left to right: pink, orange, yellow, blue. Use the flat blade screwdriver to secure the wires.

    • Carefully place the Feather board on top of the mounting headers on the PCB. Be careful to line all of the pins up properly. Gently push down until the board is fully mounted on the PCB. Failure to line up pins can cause them to bend and break.

    • Finally, line the AirLift board up on top of the Feather. Again, be sure to line all of the pins up properly. Gently push down on the AirLift until it is securely mated with the Feather.

  10. Locate the 3D printed shell front.  Orient the shell front such that the two short tabs are at the top.  These tabs are circled in red in this image.  Orient your PCB assembly as indicated here as well. Gently insert the PCB assembly between the three protruding mounting tabs on the shell front.  You will have to bend the three tabs slightly.  They are meant to flex to accommodate this assembly. Adjust the PCB assembly until the three bolt heads protruding from the front line up with the three notches in the 3D printed shell.
    • Locate the 3D printed shell front. Orient the shell front such that the two short tabs are at the top. These tabs are circled in red in this image. Orient your PCB assembly as indicated here as well.

    • Gently insert the PCB assembly between the three protruding mounting tabs on the shell front. You will have to bend the three tabs slightly. They are meant to flex to accommodate this assembly.

    • Adjust the PCB assembly until the three bolt heads protruding from the front line up with the three notches in the 3D printed shell.

    • Note that the notches are not evenly spaced so there is only one correct orientation.

    • When you are done the PCB should be nearly flush with edge of the case. The wooden rings of the PCB assembly should protrude from the front of the shell.

  11. Locate the 3D printed motor arm and motor stop pin. Insert the pin in the small hole near the bottom left of the LED ring assembly.  You may need to carefully remove a bit of plastic if the pin will not fit in the hole.
    • Locate the 3D printed motor arm and motor stop pin.

    • Insert the pin in the small hole near the bottom left of the LED ring assembly. You may need to carefully remove a bit of plastic if the pin will not fit in the hole.

    • Use caution when using a sharp blade to shave down the pin! Consider placing the peg in a vice (in the Maker-E or Mooney) and carefully shaving it down.

    • Press the motor arm on top of the motor shaft in the center of the acrylic diffuser. You may need to use a bit of force to press fit the arm onto the shaft.

    • If the arm is difficult to secure you can remove the PCB assembly from the shell front and place it flat on a surface (with the motor back flat against surface). This will provide you with a rigid surface to press against while attaching the motor arm.

  12. Locate the 3D printed shell back. Line the shell back up with the shell front.  Rotate the back until the three tabs on the shell front align with the slots on the shell back.  The ECEG 201 text should be at the top of the shell front assembly. Note that the tabs are not evenly spaced so there is only one correct orientation.
    • Locate the 3D printed shell back.

    • Line the shell back up with the shell front. Rotate the back until the three tabs on the shell front align with the slots on the shell back. The ECEG 201 text should be at the top of the shell front assembly.

    • Note that the tabs are not evenly spaced so there is only one correct orientation.

    • Push down on the back until all three tabs snap into place.

    • Congratulations! You are done assembling the DAMNED device!

    • Note that if you need to separate the two halves of the case you can use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the three tabs loose and pull the front from the back shell.

Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

Matt P. Lamparter

Member since: 08/15/2017

21 Guides authored

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15 Comments

neat design, I need for characters for the comment

James Howe - Reply

I love the design!

James Howe - Reply

This was an amazing project and it looks great.

Darren Miller - Reply

Excellent tutorial!

Tyler Burns - Reply

Good design and tutorial, just wish the screws for mounting the acrylic diffuser piece were wood screws so that they could more easily bite into the wood and thread, since there isn’t a nut on the other side of them anyway. Would also be nice to include that you may have to put the ring + plywood into a vice to avoid it breaking the glue between the two laser cut pieces, since I had to apply glue again after that happened to me.

Ryan Kopp - Reply

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